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Artworks

Open a larger version of the following image in a popup: Cindy Sherman, Untitled #470, 2008, in the artist’s frame
Open a larger version of the following image in a popup: Reverse of Cindy Sherman’s Untitled #470 Backing board

Cindy Sherman American, b. 1954

Untitled #470, 2008
chromogenic print, in artist's frame
88 1/4 x 61 1/2 in. (224.2 x 156.2 cm.)
AP1. Executed in 2008. This work is the first artist's proof from an edition of six plus one artist's proof.

Further images

  • (View a larger image of thumbnail 1 ) Cindy Sherman, Untitled #470, 2008, in the artist’s frame
  • (View a larger image of thumbnail 2 ) Reverse of Cindy Sherman’s Untitled #470
“I don't think I can see the world through other people's eyes, but I can capture an attitude or a look that makes others think I can.” — Cindy Sherman,...
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“I don't think I can see the world through other people's eyes, but I can capture an attitude or a look that makes others think I can.”
— Cindy Sherman, 2008

At more than seven feet high, the woman who occupies Untitled #470 does not merely pose; she establishes jurisdiction over the viewer's space. A red satin gown gathers around her in a broad, lustrous field. One hand closes around a decorated folding fan, while a dark coiffure, jeweled earrings, and precisely applied cosmetics complete an appearance of hard-won composure. Behind her, a stone arcade and lancet window imply the permanence of an inherited European interior. Yet the room is a digital construction, and Sherman's artist's frame extends its borrowed authority into our own space. Everything in the picture claims pedigree. Nothing can quite prove it.

Sherman has long used her own body less as a subject than as the raw material from which social images can be built. Since the Untitled Film Stills, she has taken on the roles of model, director, costumer, makeup artist, and camera operator. The resulting figures are not presented as autobiographical portraits or likenesses of actual sitters. They are synthetic personae assembled from gesture, clothing, decor, and the viewer's accumulated memories of cinema, fashion photography, advertising, and art history. Sherman has described the characters that interest her as “everything but me.” The fictions persuade because their codes are so familiar that we instinctively supply the histories the photographs withhold.

Made in 2008, Untitled #470 belongs to the group now known as the Society Portraits, in which Sherman assumes the identities of affluent women approaching or passing middle age. Developed in part from her observations while making fashion images for French Vogue, the series considers what happens when the camera meets a subject trained to appear composed, prosperous, and photogenic. The broad caricature of the preceding Clowns and Headshots gives way here to a more credible fiction. These women could almost exist. Their plausibility makes the encounter more unsettling: Sherman offers enough social evidence to suggest an entire life, then refuses to confirm a single biographical fact.

Red organizes Untitled #470: the saturated dress, the lacquered mouth, and the emphatic rouge all insist on visibility. At the same time, the photograph's scale and resolution make the labor behind that visibility impossible to ignore. Cosmetics, styling, and pose do not simply conceal age; they advertise the discipline required to manage its public appearance. Sherman does not grant her sitter the fantasy of timelessness, but neither does she reduce her to a joke. The three-quarter stance retains its formality, the gaze is level and unyielding, and the fan can be read equally as a courtly accessory or a small defensive screen. Glamour and exposure remain active at once.

That doubleness extends to the architecture of the portrait. Court painters and society portraitists traditionally used columns, draperies, estates, and inherited objects to turn status into visible fact. Sherman reconstructs the same visual grammar with contemporary means. The figures and their surroundings were produced separately: Sherman posed before a green screen, then combined the studio image with architectural photographs that she altered digitally. The old stone in Untitled #470 is therefore as constructed as the makeup, while the elaborate physical frame is not a neutral container but another component of the masquerade. The work does not simply expose a false backdrop. It shows how portraiture produces authority whenever enough signs of authority agree.

Age gives this mechanism its sharpest pressure. The picture turns on a culture that praises women for appearing accomplished yet often treats visible ageing as a failure of self-management. Pamela Church Gibson's later study of Sherman's new-millennium work usefully locates this tension at the intersection of fashion, feminism, art, and ageing. Sherman herself acknowledged an unusual proximity to these characters, remarking in 2008 that she saw too much of herself in some of the older women. That admission unsettles any comfortable separation between satirist and subject. The wit can be cutting, but the sitter's self-possession resists easy ridicule; the viewer's own judgments about age, class, and authenticity become part of the picture's content.

Its date lends the image another resonance. Created in the year of the global financial crisis, the series appeared just as the codes of effortless wealth were becoming newly precarious. Yet Untitled #470 is not an illustration of a market collapse. Its concern is more durable: the maintenance of identity as a social surface. Traditional society portraiture promises continuity—of family, property, taste, and name. Here the old-world room is a screen, the costume is a carefully chosen sign, and the face is suspended between lived time and cosmetic correction. Class emerges not as a possession but as a performance that has to be sustained.

The upright confrontation also distinguishes the Society Portraits from Sherman's 1981 Centerfolds. Those horizontal figures often appear absorbed, exposed, or psychologically elsewhere; the woman in Untitled #470 returns the look. Vulnerability is present, but it is not surrender. Enlarged beyond life size, she scrutinizes the spectator as insistently as the spectator scrutinizes her. The work refuses the familiar promise that a portrait will disclose an authentic person beneath the public mask. In Sherman's image, the mask is not an obstacle to identity. It is one of the principal forms identity takes.

The series' later museum history has sharpened these questions. Another example of Untitled #470 appeared in Sherman's 2012 Museum of Modern Art retrospective, where the Society Portraits formed a late culmination of the survey; a further print in Moderna Museet's collection was shown in a 2018 collection presentation. The National Portrait Gallery's 2019 retrospective placed the series within the longer history of portraiture, while the Fondation Louis Vuitton included another example of Untitled #470, from the Sammlung Goetz, in its 2020–21 survey and reproduced it in the accompanying catalogue. Together, these presentations demonstrate the continuing relevance of the Society Portraits to Sherman's sustained inquiry into the social uses of appearance.

What finally holds Untitled #470 in suspension is the gap between a fictional woman and the very real judgments directed toward her. Sherman gives us a character who appears to have spent a lifetime learning how to be seen, then allows the photograph to reveal how difficult that achievement is to sustain. The result is neither a celebration of glamour nor a simple exposure of vanity. It is a portrait of self-presentation under pressure—poised between assurance and anxiety, command and defense, the image one offers and the meanings others impose upon it.
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Exhibitions

New York, Metro Pictures and Berlin and London, Sprüth Magers, Cindy Sherman, November 2008-April 2009, n.p. (another example exhibited, illustrated and illustrated on the front cover).

Rome, Gagosian Gallery, Cindy Sherman, June-September 2009, n.p. (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Munich, Museum Villa Stuck, Street Life and Home Stories: Photographs from the Goetz Collection, June-September 2011, pp. 171 and 216 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

New York, Museum of Modern Art; San Francisco Museum of Modern Art; Minneapolis, Walker Art Center and Dallas Museum of Art, Cindy Sherman: A Retrospective, February 2012-June 2013, pp. 222 and 245, pl. 167 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Kunsthaus Zürich, Deftig Barock: Von Cattelan bis Zurbarán - Manifeste des prekär Vitalen, June-September 2012, pp. 133 and 167 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Kunsthaus Bregenz, Love Is Colder than Capital: An Exhibition About the Value of Feelings, February-April 2013 (another example exhibited).

Oslo, Astrup Fearnley Museet; Stockholm, Moderna Museet and Kunsthaus Zürich, Cindy Sherman—Untitled Horrors, May 2013-September 2014, pp. 213 and 227 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Munich, Sammlung Goetz, Cindy Sherman, January-July 2015, pp. 73, 151, 156 and 174 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Brisbane, Queensland Art Gallery, Gallery of Modern Art and City Gallery Wellington, Cindy Sherman, May 2016-March 2017, pp. 112-113 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Stockholm, Moderna Museet, Collection Presentation, January-March 2018 (another example exhibited).

Paris, Fondation Louis Vuitton, Cindy Sherman, September 2020-January 2021, pp. 187 and 237 (another example exhibited and illustrated).

Literature

R. Smith, "Photography's Angel Provocateur," The New York Times, 24 February 2012, p. C25 (another example illustrated).

E. Heartney, H. Posner, N. Princenthal and S. Scott, After the Revolution: Women Who Transformed Contemporary Art, New York, 2013, p. 195 (another example illustrated).

P. Moorhouse, Cindy Sherman, London, 2014, p. 140, no. 113 (another example illustrated).

P. Church Gibson “Cindy Sherman in a New Millennium: Fashion, Feminism, Art and Ageing,” Australian Feminist Studies, vol. 33, no. 98, 2018, pp. 481-497 (another example illustrated).

Cindy Sherman, exh. cat., London, National Portrait Gallery, 2019, pp. 205 and 253 (another example illustrated).

L. Allsop, “The ‘Real’ Cindy Sherman.” ArtReview, 21 September 2020, digital (another example illustrated).

W. Middleton and L. Benaïm, Codognato Masterpiece, New York, 2023, p. 53 (another example illustrated).
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Serge Sorokko Gallery

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